I've been planning to take my daughter to Cuttyhunk aboard Yamp Swankee and the weekend of August 15 and 16 looked good for it with a forecast of southwesterly winds 10-15 knots for both afternoons. We planned to launch from Galilee, RI, staying relatively close to the coast, anticipating a long reach, but hopefully with decent speed once the breeze filled. Saturday morning arrived and we discovered two problems. First, the NOAA marine forecast had changed to a significantly lighter southerly of 5-10 knots. Second, the Galilee ramp trailer parking was beyond capacity, with many trailers parked along the access road which is limited to 4 hours. We considered Wickford, but that is an even longer sail starting with a southerly beat. Our only realistic option was to launch from Westport, MA, an hour away. I wasn't sure they still allowed overnight parking, but a quick call to the harbormaster confirmed they do as long as you pay for all the days ($10 per day).
We left around noon on Saturday in a lovely 10-12 knot breeze which gradually diminished as we approached the island, but we were anchored by 3:00pm in the shallows of the northwestern corner of Cuttyhunk Pond where we could wade ashore and follow the road into town.
Cuttyhunk has greatly expanded food options in recent years. I recall that in the 80s and 90s it was pretty much just the raw bar boat, maybe one restaurant, and the general store which used to be located on the west side of Broadway just before Tower Road. The more recent general store (lower down the east side of Broadway) is now closed also, as of last year, from the owners' retirement. Now though, there is the the Gosnold Grill, open after 4:30pm, serving burgers, pizza and more. The Cuttyhunk Cafe has coffee, tea, and pastries. The raw bar is still there, and there is even a little ice cream shop. The Cuttyhunk Fishing Club offers breakfast in the mornings during July and August.
After the traditional walk up Tower Road for the view, we hiked back down the well-cleared schoolhouse trail, checking for ticks after. We enjoyed burgers from the Gosnold Grill for dinner, and ice cream for dessert before getting to bed early aboard the boat.
Waking up shortly after dawn makes for a long day, but I love the early morning when I'm well-rested enough. We walked to the Cuttyhunk Cafe and were thrilled to find they were open, even at 6:30am. I had an iced coffee and a sausage, egg, and cheese sandwich on an everything bagel. My daughter enjoyed an iced chai with a blueberry muffin. We hiked to the top of the hill again, then went snorkeling in the calm, clear waters of the outside beach at the west end of the pond. Afterwards, we cleaned up the boat and got things ready to head out.
We had originally planned on leaving around noon once the breeze came up, but with nothing else we specifically wanted to do we decided to depart early. We hoisted both main and jib at anchor, but the oars were necessary to get us out of the pond. Clear of the channel entrance, we stowed the oars and slowly ghosted north at about 1.5 knots. While it gradually filled to 5 knots or so, it was a sunny, slow, relaxed trip back. Fortunately, the breeze came up just as we neared Westport Harbor at the mouth of the Westport river. There was significant current against us, I would guess 2+ knots, but enough breeze to overcome it until the very last stretch adjacent to the boat ramp where wind shadows caused us to have to make a couple attempts, proceeding well beyond the docks, almost to the bridge just upriver to get enough distance to overcome the set of the current. All in all, one of the best weekends I've ever had at Cuttyhunk!
